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> 914-6 stock front engine mount, schematic or pics
Speedo
post Mar 30 2026, 06:09 PM
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I'm ready to buckle up my engine into my six. I'm ready to go except...I can't find schematic in my parts pdf that shows all the hardware. I have the mount on the engine, the female half on the chassis with the top and bottom plates, the 135 x 12mm bolt. My question is about nuts and washers. I assume there is a heavy washer at the head (bottom) of the bolt that touches the bottom of the mount on the engine. Is there a lock washer in the system, and is there an additional nut and washer on the bolt that sticks through the top of the mount? This is what happens when you take a car apart and wait ten years to put it back together...in addition, the longer the time between disassembly and reassembly, the more time the shop "trolls" have to hid stuff on you. Ask me how I know....
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mskala
post Mar 30 2026, 07:19 PM
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No washer for the big bolt
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colingreene
post Mar 30 2026, 07:42 PM
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i have a pretty nice replica of a factory mount if you are looking for one.
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Speedo
post Mar 31 2026, 07:44 AM
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QUOTE(mskala @ Mar 30 2026, 05:19 PM) *

No washer for the big bolt
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Huh. So bolt basically bolts up through 13-16-17-20 with no lock washer at all? What is to keep it from backing out?

Thanks for responding!
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rudedude
post Mar 31 2026, 07:52 AM
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Part #20 has a split lock nut, at least on mine, welded on that plate.
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Superhawk996
post Mar 31 2026, 08:22 AM
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Lock washers are less than worthless.

Bolt stretch is what keeps any fastener from loosening and backing out.

Torque bolt to spec with a torque wrench and you’ll be fine. If you want belt and suspenders use blue locktite.

Per NASA fastener design manual 1990
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Modern automobiles do not use split ring lock washers, they just add unnecessary weight and decrease reliability.
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gereed75
post Mar 31 2026, 09:05 AM
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Suggestion for first time installer - use a rod the same diameter as the M8 bolt, about 3” longer than the bolt. Thread the end M8 and screw it into the assembled mount (#20 and associated parts). Let this rod dangle down through the assembled mount. Use this rod through the hole in #13 as a guide as you raise the engine up into position. Once raised into position, unscrew the guide rod and replace with the bolt #21. Voila
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porschetub
post Apr 1 2026, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE(gereed75 @ Apr 1 2026, 04:05 AM) *

Suggestion for first time installer - use a rod the same diameter as the M8 bolt, about 3” longer than the bolt. Thread the end M8 and screw it into the assembled mount (#20 and associated parts). Let this rod dangle down through the assembled mount. Use this rod through the hole in #13 as a guide as you raise the engine up into position. Once raised into position, unscrew the guide rod and replace with the bolt #21. Voila

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) that works ,I used a long screw driver to same effect ,my engine is rock solid with NOS rubber front mount but I did also rear g/box mounts with HD 911 ones , it all helps .
Engine fitted fine and engine tin was right for perimeter seals , cheers.
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930cabman
post Apr 1 2026, 04:14 PM
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QUOTE(gereed75 @ Mar 31 2026, 09:05 AM) *

Suggestion for first time installer - use a rod the same diameter as the M8 bolt, about 3” longer than the bolt. Thread the end M8 and screw it into the assembled mount (#20 and associated parts). Let this rod dangle down through the assembled mount. Use this rod through the hole in #13 as a guide as you raise the engine up into position. Once raised into position, unscrew the guide rod and replace with the bolt #21. Voila


Great idea, thanks. I installed mine a couple years ago and recall it was challenging. Will need to recheck and confirm all is good
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